The Stars Align

@ChefMichaelMina brings one of the city’s most accomplished chefs to run his kitchen. @MichaelMinaSF @haikufoodreview

Two years ago, when Michael Mina relocated his flagship restaurant from the Westin St. Francis hotel to the former Aqua space, he described the move as an emotional homecoming. To me, it felt more like a trip in the wayback machine. Sure, the chef was returning to the address where his rise to celebrity began. But he was also trotting out a culinary style whose groundbreaking touches had grown familiar. Mina was already a brand, and when you’re a brand, you need brand recognition. To many in his fan base—much of it made up of business travelers and self-professed foodies looking for a safe adventure—a true Mina menu calls for such hallmarks as lobster potpie deconstructed tableside and the chef’s signature take on tuna tartare. But for me (I gave the restaurant two and a half stars shortly after it opened), the tried-and-true verged on tired. The first reaction it inspired...

Full article: http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/the-stars...