31 Jan '17, 2pm
"9 Islands of the Azores"
in the modernist bar looking out to sea, I'm met by Jorge Valério. He is a São Miguel local who knows the island inside out. Along with his business partner, Lisa Moreira, he runs Holistika , a bespoke Azores tour specialist. Valério decides what I need to find most on São Miguel is a waterfall, a view and a good glass of wine. Sounds about right. We hit the road, chatting about liberation and landscape, his positivity compelling. Inching down a terrifyingly steep track we find a hidden waterfall. The force of the water has carved sleek sports-car curves into the rock face. On dry days you can swim here, letting the weight of the water pummel your shoulders. Above the cascade, hikers follow knee-tremblingly narrow walkways across the rocks, over volcanic peaks to the sea.