12 Sep '15, 9am

My weekly restaurant round-up is now published:

Moving up the culinary ambition level, I had another superb meal at The Ritz . The level of technical skill in the kitchen was illustrated by a beef tartare topped by what looked like just like a whole black truffle but was actually a sphere of breadcrumbs coloured with squid ink, encasing a mushroom puree with a soft cooked quail egg at its centre; the dish was finished by dots of egg yolk reduction. The pastry section here is no less ambitious, with a spectacular gateau St Honore (pictured). That the food here continues to be ignored by Michelin is a source of unending bewilderment to me, but not to its customers: the vast dining room was packed out on a midweek lunch.

Full article: http://www.andyhayler.com/blog/post/putting-on-the-ritz2

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