I won't deny it. Puerto Rico's charms resisted me at first - or I resisted them. Fighting my way in an automatic Toyota along a six-lane highway towards San Juan, the island's capital, I was sent into mild shock by the endless ranks of billboards on giant poles, reciting the all-American menu of Wendy's and Burger King, Subway and Taco Bell, Applebee's and KFC. As a landscape, it wasn't quite what I had anticipated from this Caribbean isle. And it wasn't until a few days later, as I marvelled at one of the most delicious tropical beaches I have ever seen, that I managed to put that unfortunate first impression into perspective.